Most people who purchase the Practical range do so because they are looking to make smaller scale in home type items. Often these involve small or intricate scrollwork using smaller size steel strips from 3/8" to 3/4" wide x up to 1/8" thickness. That is not to say that the Practical range cannot be used to make large items such as furniture but if the item being made is load bearing or requires a significant degree of strength, it may have to incorporate quite a number of scrolls or jointed metalwork into the design to accomplish this and for that reason when thinking of doing furniture the Master or XL Pro range of tools may be a better choice for you.  We have found that many who get the Practical tools and later add the Master or XL tools, don't put away their Practical tools as they end up using both as each have their advantages.  

The Master range, works with larger size and stronger material up to 1" wide x 3/16" thickness flat metal strip, which allows larger scale projects to be tackled more easily and without the need for so much scroll work or joined metalwork. The Master tools require a larger work area and have greater versatility overall, but they can still be used to work the lighter gauge materials associated with the Practical tools. For DIY's and also commercial applications, the Master range is a sensible entry level range.

The XL Pro range is for the serious DIY, professional and industrial user, that requires the power to work with larger and varied sections of steel. For the money it packs an amazing amount of functionality for commercial wrought iron producers, fabricators, and engineering & training workshops.

For a comparison of these tools and their capabilities hover over the Products button on the navigation bar above and a drop down box will appear - click on Tools or Workshops to see the tool specifications.

Please note we are here to help get you the right tools for the designs you plan to build. Contact us info@metalcraftusa.com OR 507-536-4536 cell# (call or text) and we will give you our recommendations - NO we are not sales people, we help educate people so they can make the right choice and get the right tools.

No - none whatsoever. All our Metalcraft tools are safe and easy to use and do not require any heat or electrical power. All functions are carried out by hand power and are designed for beginners and professionals alike to work with metal without having to heat it up. To join flat strip metalwork together, some of the tools make use of an ingenious riveting system which creates attractive looking traditional joints without needing to weld.

However, for customers with the appropriate equipment and skills, welding can certainly be applied.

All of our Metalcraft tools and the components on them are guaranteed against defective workmanship for one year from the date of shipment. This applies to “fair” and “normal” use and does not cover acts of abuse, misuse, wearable parts (such as punch pins and cutting blades), and/or lack of tool maintenance.  In the unlikely event of a fault occurring during fair and normal use, we need to know about it as soon as possible. metalcraftusa.com will decide to either repair or replace the item concerned.

Metalcraft tools are designed and guaranteed to work with generally available Hot rolled (Black) Mild Steel or Annealed (softened) Bright Mild Steel to the specified sizes stated in the accompanying web pages. Such steels can be obtained from your local steel companies OR we do offer many sizes of steel so please check out our steel selection.  Now using UPS Simple (Flat) Rate for shipping so basically 1 lb. up to 50 lbs. of metal costs the same to ship and yes different metals can be combined to reach the 50 lbs. These metals are ideally suited for use with Metalcraft tools and tend to be in much more manageable & affordable quantities than purchasing from a steel stockholder.

Please note: If you should wish to use other metals, please contact our staff to discuss the suitability of using them with Metalcraft tools. 

If you have a specific application in mind but are not sure whether our tools can produce it, you are always welcome to contact us 507-536-4536 cell# or info@metalcraftusa.com   Best to include the details of the idea you are looking to make and what size/type of material to be used.  If we have the material we may attempt to make the item(s) on this end but note we may need to request from you to send a sample of the material and/or sample of a finished part you are wanting to duplicate.

Yes.  In addition to consumable parts like punch pins and cutting blades, at our facility in Rochester Minnesota we carry most parts for the Metalcraft tools.  As we do not sell many parts, we do not have a separate parts price list nor are parts listed on our website.  To order contact us at info@metalcraftusa.com OR 507-536-4536 cell#.

Why do we carry so many parts then?  if a tool should go down it's always at the wrong time so we understand customers want to get back up and running quickly.  Also dealing with schools, parts get lost more than broken and teachers rely on us to get their equipment back in operation.  Thus having tool parts sit and not sell is worth it to us.

First, choose the correct diameter of rivet. Our 1/8" rivets are available in 6 different lengths. These are suitable for use with 1/8" holes punched on the Metalcraft Practical Punch/Shear (or the Master Punch/Shear OR XL5+ Pro Power Bender fitted with 1/8" Punch Block & Pin).

Our 3/16" rivets are supplied in 5 lengths suitable for use with holes punched on Metalcraft Master Punch/Shear OR XL5+ Pro Power Bender fitted with the 3/16" Punch Block & Pin.

2nd, choose the correct length of rivet. This is dictated by how many strips of flat strip metal you are joining together and their total thickness. If working with up to 1/8" thick flat strip metal to be riveted together, the rivet should be approx. 1/16" - 1/8" longer than the combined thickness of the metalwork being riveted. If riveting flat strip metal thicker than 1/8" together the rivet should extend approx. 1/8" - 3/16" longer than the combined thickness of the metalwork being riveted.

For this reason, it pays to have a selection of each size of rivet available so that you can rivet a variety of thicknesses.  The flat head rivets we offer have been processed and are mild.  Rivets listed in our Fixings section.

Some examples:

• 2 pieces of 3/32" thickness = 1/4" long rivet
• 4 pieces of 3/32" thickness = 3/8" long rivet
• 2 pieces of 1/8" thickness = 5/16" long rivet
• 3 pieces of 1/8" thickness =   1/2" long rivet
• 2 pieces of 3/16" thickness = 1/2" long rivet

J scroll: only 1 end of the scroll is bent and the other is left straight in varying lengths.

C scroll: both ends are bent to the same stop on the scroll bender. The ends of the C scroll are identical and bent in the same direction.

G scroll: one end of the scroll is smaller than the other end. Both ends of the G scroll are bent in the same direction.

SS scroll: the ends are bent to the same stop. Ends of the SS scroll are identical in size but are bent in opposite directions.

SD scroll: one end of the scroll is smaller than the other end and achieved by bending each end to different stops. The ends are bent in opposite directions.Answer richtext

Steel needs a protective coat especially if located outside. For best results, clean steel with compatible cleaner such as paint thinner, then use a quality primer paint designed for use on steel.  Read paint can carefully and when appropriate paint your project with a compatible top coat - a wide range of attractive colors, finishes, and effects are available. You can apply this by brush or aerosol, the latter being more suitable for smaller objects and getting into joints that brushes have difficulty reaching. Brands such as Krylon or Rustoleum x2 are available from major DIY & Hardware stores as well as specialist paint outlets.

If operating on a larger scale or business basis, wet spray painting can be used, or if preferred, dry electrostatic epoxy and polyester powder coatings are available usually through commercial painters. 

When painting the metal stampings here is what we recommend: Degrease stampings - as part of the manufacturing process, stampings may have a slight coating of lubricant so this lubricant must be removed before any finishing or paint is applied to the decorative item. Wipe items down using a clean cloth damp with paint thinner, turpentine, denatured alcohol,  or other strong detergent solution that is compatible with paint. After degreasing the item we strongly recommend that you apply a rust and corrosion-inhibiting coating to the item (unless rusting the stampings).

Once cleaned, finish by: Painting (RustOleum or other quality spray paint - follow your paint supplier's directions for preparing, priming and top-coating the material chosen).  StainTorch Stampings - using a torch, heat the metal stamping up till it turns a dull light blue and then when it cools down enough to hold in your hand but still has a little heat, top coat with a clear enamel spray paint and that's when the colors will really pop.  Torching changes the properties of the metal and brings out the blue, black, and purple colors of the metal. Once cooled, the stampings need to be top coated again with a clear enamel.  Baked Enamel Powder Paint - powered paint is actually baked onto the stamping.  Natural Steel Color - use several light coats of clear non-yellowing enamel spray paint or clear powder coating.  Rusting - soak items undisturbed in a glass container with equal parts bleach and white vinegar for 24 hours. (Caution! Do not breath the fumes and keep away from children & pets). Let items air dry until the desired level of rust is achieved and then top coat with clear non-yellowing enamel spray paint.    

For general painting, we recommend Rustoleum x2 spray paint and use several light coats - read back of spray can carefully. For intricate painting, artist Sara Thamert, recommends the following: must use a quality primer and I found a Walmart product that works very well - brand name is ColorPlace an interior/exterior fast dry spray paint. Gray primer. The paint I use is either: Apple Barrel-Acrylic paint or Delta-Acrylic paint. Both products are great and sized containers are just right. 2 fl. oz. /8 fl. oz. Purchased at Michaels or other hobby and arts stores may carry them. After the stamping dries for a few days I spray a clear finish coat to seal the paint. Another Walmart product by Krylon. Acrylic Crystal Clear Gloss indoor/outdoor Protective, Non-Yellowing Clear Finish.

Once again, make sure stampings are cleaned prior to any painting application.

Over time punch pins will gradually wear and eventually break. For this reason, it should be regarded as a consumable part but following the information below will make sure you get the maximum working life from your punch pin:

• Always keep punch pins well lubricated using quality grease/oil.
• Incorrect use through forgetting to follow the instructions supplied with all tools performing the punching operation. The most common mistake we encounter is users not supporting the metal bar that is being punched during the punching operation
• Very important to FULLY retract the punch pin after punching before removing the flat metal strip from the punch block slot. Large movements of the punched metal bar whilst the punch pin is still protruding through the bar and into exit hole of the block, will exert a large lateral shear force on the pin which it is not designed to withstand. By observing these guidelines you should minimize your pin breakages.
• Quality of the steel being punched can make a big difference. Black hot rolled mild steel bar can vary in hardness along the length of the bar and occasionally, you can hit a particularly hard spot which may lead to a pin breaking. If you replace the broken pin and try punching more holes in same metal and encounter another breakage, then we suggest trying other hot rolled mild steel to see if the problem persists or not.  If not, then most likely the quality of metal was poor or had high carbon content. 

For questions about any of the Metalcraft products please contact us at: info@metalcraftusa.com OR call/text us at 507-536-4536.

Our metal stampings are shipped in their raw (unfinished) material form with a thin coat of lubricant that will help retard oxidation (rust, tarnish or patina). This lubricant will protect items to a certain point but the exact timeframe on when items start to oxidize will depend on a number of factors, including humidity in the storage area and how they are stored.

Therefore, we cannot guarantee the “non-oxidizing” shelf life for any stamping. We have found if stampings are frequently handled, exposed to damp air currents, or in high humidity environment, the stampings will oxidize faster.

Each stamping requires a specialized die (facing right and left would be 2 dies) so technically yes different sizes of a stamping can be done BUT minimum cost per die is $20,000 dollars so initial order for a new size or stamping is 25,000 pieces. This is done to help offset the price of the new die. Lead time to make a new die is several months. Future orders would not have this minimum requirement.

• nut & bolt fixings can be used.  These can be used for temporary or permanent application.  For example when making prototypes nuts & bolts are handy to temporary hold pieces together OR to make this type of joint permanent using nuts & bolts, use a dab of strong adhesive (superglue - E6000 works well) in the thread of the nut after it is tightened to stop the nut from working loose.  Side tip: when using nuts & bolts with candle holders or trays - use our 1/2" long nut & bolt with the thread pointing upwards, the thread can act as a useful spike on which to secure the candle.
• M11 rare earth magnet.  If you want to add a metal stamping to your project but don't want it permanent (for example, you may want to change out the stamping depending on the season) then consider using one of our small but powerful M11 rare earth magnets. Like that idea but have concerns that a child may swallow the magnet, then glue the magnet to your project so stamping can still be removed but not the magnet.  Same concept but you want to make both permanent, then glue magnet to stamping and then glue both to project.  Suggestion - make sure the glue used is paintable.  Woodworking tip:  if attaching M11 magnet to wood, drill a 3/8" hole (dia. of M11 magnet), countersink a flat head screw, and then glue the M11 rare earth magnet to the screw and wood. The magnet is hidden, permanent, but still allows one to change out metal stamping if needed.
• 2 sided sticky foam tape.
• Pop Riveting
• Soldering and other forms of welding.  We recommend putting all the heat on the metal one is attaching the stamping to and then run a quick bead to the stamping.
• Make your own fixing tag and apply to the back of a stamping.  Using small piece of metal, make a L shape bend where one side will be applied to metal stamping with strong glue (like E6000) and the other side a hole will be punched.  Then using a nut & bolt you can attach the tag in the most appropriate position to suit its position on the finished project.  HINT: to bond the fixing tag effectively make sure the face of the tag that makes contact with the back of the accessory is as long as possible and ideally punched with a few holes to improve the flow of the strong glue (like E6000) being used to secure both surfaces.  When the fixing tag has securely bonded to the back of the accessory, you can then attach it anywhere you want on your Metalcraft project using nuts & bolts or by careful welding or soldering.

Adding this wider range of attractive decorations gives greater scope for individual styling of your projects especially if the accessories are made even more eye-catching when painted in contrasting colors.